The Golden Hour: Incredible Stories Behind Cartier’s Iconic Watches

From the Reflection to the Panthère, here are the fascinating stories behind four of Cartier’s most famous timepieces.

Cartier’s reflection

Cartier has a fascinating new cuff. After 3,000 hours of development, last month the company debuted its latest marvel: An open bracelet with a watch embedded on one end and reflected on the shiny surface of the other, so the time is also told in reverse.

All five resolutely modern jewel watches are composed of 95 sculpted elements and feature the signature Roman numerals and sword hands on their dials. The versatile yellow-gold and rose-gold designs can be worn alone or stacked with other bracelets.

Encrusted with precious stones, the three highly jeweled variations are ready for the gala. There is an icy all-white diamond-encrusted bracelet, along with a peacock motif lacquered version set with chrysoprase, obsidian, emerald, Paraba tourmaline and diamonds.

A diverse array of vibrant colors appear in opal, amethyst, spessartite garnet, tiger’s eye and diamond repeats. Crafted with savoir-faire, these watches exude glamour.

Santos de Cartier

Reaching new heights through 120 years of horological history, Santos de Cartier remains supreme. The first modern wristwatch was developed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, after the latter complained that he had difficulty checking the time on his pocket watch while flying.

Practical, adventurous and ultra legible, it featured a geometric dial, curved horns and exposed screws in a square bezel. Cartier often re-engineered its references, clearing the Santos models for size increases from small to extra large, with innovations such as the QuickSwitch and SmartLink interchangeable strap system, which allows users to easily adjust the length of the bracelet without tools.

Continuing in full swing, in 2009 the maison released the first skeleton variation in its Santos collection. The patented 9611 MC caliber boasts bridges engraved in the shape of Roman numerals, so they help present the time. The sky is the limit.

Tank

More than a century old, the immensely popular Cartier Tank stands the test of time. Loved by men and women alike, it has been worn by a pantheon of connoisseurs, from Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart to Angelina Jolie, along with Meghan Markle, Michelle Obama and Princess Diana.

Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier, the design of the watch reflected the top view of a World War I tank, with a minute dial with railway tracks, Roman numerals and a blue cabochon. This purity of line lends itself to a multitude of repetitions.

Today, variations include the Tank Louis Cartier (an Art Deco masterpiece), the Tank Française (with its seamless chain bracelet), the Tank Cintrée Skeleton (its slim case reveals a visible movement) and the Tank Amà © ricaine mini (boldly elongated but sized to hug the wrist). There is endless temptation for Tank enthusiasts.

Panther de Cartier

Panthère has been around Cartier since 1914, when the then director of bags, accessories and homewares, Jeanne Toussaint, designed her first cat wristwatch. Stained like her panther fur coat, the watch was studded with diamonds and onyx stones.

Over the decades, the animal motif reappeared in watches, jewelry and accessories, but it wasn’t until 1983 that the maison unveiled its Panthére de Cartier line of quartz jewelry watches. With thin gold link bracelets and a square case with a rounded corner, they fit perfectly into the glamorous decade of “Dynasty”.

Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, Jane Fonda, Pierce Brosnan and Keith Richards were all photographed in their iconic Panthères, and Charlie Sheen’s character Bud Fox in “Wall Street” invested in a gold when he started making money.

Always evolving, today’s collection features dozens of designs, including mixed metal bangles, two- and three-ring bracelets, cuffs, patterned lacquer and diamond-encrusted styles. Absolutely tough.

All at London Jewelers, 1988 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, LI